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Fishing: Or, How the Competition Begins
Ron Nicholas, the FSTA Chef/Instructor, is a big man with a shaved head and a serious demeanor. In the kitchen, towering above most students, he sends a wordless message: having fun is fine, but we’re here to work. He’s “Switzerland,” a graduate told the current class during orientation. He’s above the fray, she explained, reliably neutral and fair. He’s cool when tempers flair around him. But he gets impatient when students ignore rules or become lazy and careless. “Don’t forget, I’ll see you guys on Wednesday at 8:30, not at 9 am,” the chef reminded the students on Monday morning of Week #8. He repeated the warning on Tuesday morning. “Wednesday the Competition begins,” he said. “You choose a country or a region of the US. You find out who your teammates are. If you come late, you’re messing up.” How’s this gonna work out, most students wonder. Should I wish for China or Cuba or California? Is it easier to win with France or Barbados? With New England or Singapore? * * * On the Wednesday morning in question, at 8:25 am, the chef settles himself behind a long table in the middle of the classroom. Thirty-seven students gather in a semi circle - - waiting. Chef Ron is taking his time. He wraps his arms around a huge glass bowl. This is my fishbowl bowl, the gesture says; and I’m calling the shots. At the bottom of the bowl are 37 tiny, tightly folded white paper “balls.” With their crinkly edges, the “balls” resemble miniature shells or oddly shaped white chocolates. Chef Ron runs his large hands over the smooth surface, relishing the moment. The students are primed and eager – almost twitchy with anticipation. Seated next to him, Executive Chef Paul Kapner is wearing his signature Chefwear pants: patterned (not the traditional black) with brightly colored red and green peppers. On the table in front of him is an alphabetical list of students. Chef Paul clears his throat, glances at Chef Ron, and grins. The fun is about to begin. “Tonya Allen,” he calls out. The students hoot, cheer and clap as Tonya - - with dreads flying down her back, almost to her waist - - comes forward. She thrusts her right hand into the bowl and fishes out the first choice of the day. Appreciating her center-stage moment, Tonya gazes at the folded object before attacking it. Her slender fingers pull at the paper, meeting with unexpected resistance. Is this mini struggle part of Chef Ron’s game - - to entertain the group with mock suspense and campy student performances? “The East Coast (of the US),” Tonya finally announces. The disappointment on her face matches the flat tone of her voice. She was hoping for Italy or Argentina or an Asian country, she says later: someplace different and difficult. “Abraham Baez,” Chef Paul calls out. “Not Puerto Rico,” Chef Ron shouts as Abraham approaches the bowl. There’s more clapping and laughter all around. Abraham, a wiry man who rarely stops moving, likes to say - - when an unpleasant assignment is in the offing - - “give it to the Puerto Rican.” Chef Ron knows how passionate students are about their family foods and traditions. Abraham isn’t the only Latino student to prefer sofrito-seasoned rice above all other versions. Chef Ron repeats “Not Puerto Rico” when Chef Paul calls on Roberto Berrios, Miguel Gonzalez, Richard Mendez and Daniel Zambrana. After each “Not Puerto Rico,” the group roars. Some students stamp their feet. Everyone claps. Joking, Chef Ron makes a serious point. In the competition, most students will find themselves on unfamiliar turf. Their challenge is to learn from reading about their country or region and from recipes. Their challenge is to research an unknown or little known cuisine and make it their own. Three Puerto Rican “fish” blend with others in the bowl. All elude the Puerto Rican fishermen. Chef Paul calls Michael Caldwell, who selects the first. Asmar Thorne and Tarrance Watson draw the other two. The three guys exchange high fives to applause and laughter. All are African American with no ties to the island. Yettie Montford, like her friend Tonya, relishes her moment in the limelight. When she pulls Germany from the glass bowl, Yettie runs to hug Roberto, who selected that country earlier in the draw. “No hugs,” Chef Paul shouts. Everyone roars. Chef Paul and Chef Ron encourage the hoopla. The students’ good spirits, support for one another, and embrace of teamwork are gratifying to them and the staff. High yield cooking, such as the program teaches, requires collaboration. What’s more, every kitchen benefits from a smooth functioning team. The FSTA’s Cooking Competition is built around teams. Like all competitions, this one challenges students - - as individuals and team members - - to dig deep in the interest of winning. With celebrity TV chefs as their models, everyone wants to turn in a good performance: a smart menu with “authentic,” good looking food on a culturally-evocative, colorful table. Several students admit to lusting after a medal. Some insist that what counts is doing their best. I just wanna have fun, one student says.
(Doris Friedensohn is Professor Emerita at New Jersey City University. She writes about eating, education, feminism, and social change. A chapter in her food memoir, Eating as I Go: Scenes from America and Abroad, published in 2006 by the University Press of Kentucky, deals with the Food Service Training Academy.) |
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